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   [160]TOP STORIES / [161]Culture / [162]Meet the Germans
   Advertisement

Meet the Germans

Asparagus craze in Germany during the coronavirus crisis

   As spring blooms in Germany, locals excitedly count the days until they
   can eat their favorite vegetable: asparagus. Turns out not even a
   pandemic can dampen desire for the white stalks, as DW's Meet the
   Germans learned.

   [163]White asparagus on a plate (picture-alliance/dpa/Creativ Studio
   Heinemann)

   Daydreams in Germany these days are often filled with [164]white
   asparagus stalks — plain, with ham, with butter, with hollandaise
   sauce, pan-fried, boiled, baked. Each preparation offers its own
   pleasures, and many Germans swear by their own [165]tried-and-true
   recipe.

   They also know not to buy asparagus without first performing the
   definitive "squeak test." It's the sound of asparagus that confirms
   freshness; if you rub two fresh stalks together, they squeak!

   Once home, if the stalks don't go straight into the cooking pot. they
   should be wrapped in a damp kitchen towel and placed in the fridge in
   the crisper, where they'll keep for two to three days.
   Watch video 03:01

Share

Asparagus: An ode to Germany's favorite vegetable

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Asparagus: An ode to Germany's favorite vegetable

   Do without asparagus? No way!

   This year, with coronavirus raging around the world and movement
   restrictions in place, many Germans were worried that there would not
   be enough field workers to harvest the crop — around 300,000 seasonal
   laborers come from Eastern Europe annually to get the job done.

   "The asparagus harvest is at stake!" wrote one of Germany's major
   tabloids in mid-March. Amidst the chaos of life in times of
   coronavirus, would Germans not be able to at least take comfort in
   their favorite spring delicacy?

   The German government eventually decided to allow up to [177]40,000
   seasonal workers to enter the country in both May and June, despite
   travel restrictions.
     * Sign advertising fresh asparagus (picture alliance/L. Halbauer)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Take the 'Asparagus Road'
       When makeshift stalls and signs advertising fresh asparagus pop up
       along the roadside, Germans know it's "Spargelzeit," the brief
       asparagus season. Over a few weeks, people go wild with asparagus
       dishes and every restaurant has a special asparagus menu. In North
       Rhine-Westphalia, 140 farms have mapped out a distinctive culinary
       route they've called the "Spargelstrasse" (Asparagus Road).
     * asparagus on display (DW/D. Breitenbach)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Crisp, slender spears
       Customers have a choice of different qualities, the most expensive
       being the stalks that are straight, have a length of about 22
       centimeters and tightly closed tips, followed by less-perfect
       spears – too thin, bended – or even broken. No fuss: some stalls
       sell ready-peeled asparagus, as unlike the green variety, white
       asparagus must be peeled.
     * Asparagus salesman in roadside stall (DW/D. Breitenbach)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Perfect, broken or peeled
       Germans can never seem to get enough of the slender white stalks
       only available for a few weeks each year: the season begins in mid
       April and invariably ends on June 24. Supermarkets, farms, farmer's
       markets and roadside vendors categorize and price the vegetable
       according to length and tips. In 2018, customers paid an average of
       €5.48 ($6.18) for a kilo of white asparagus.
     * Ham, asparagus and potatos on a dish (Imago/Strussfoto)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

A classic dish
       The "vegetable of kings" is traditionally served with melted butter
       or creamy rich Hollandaise sauce, boiled new potatoes and thin
       slices of cold ham. From soups, tartes and omelettes to schnapps,
       there's no limit to people's creativity when it comes to asparagus.
     * An asaparagus tip breaks through the soil (Getty Images/AFP/S.
       Bozon)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Asparagus history
       Asparagus was a delicacy even in ancient times. Roman historian
       Marcus Porcius Cato described its cultivation in his book "De agri
       cultura." King Louis XIV had asparagus grown in Versailles in 17th
       century France. In 1852, a cannery in the German town of Brunswick
       started canning asparagus: Finally, it was available year-round.
     * Three men harvesting asparagus (Imago/R. Unkel)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Harvested by hand
       The stalks grow under long mounds of heaped soil, and unlike green
       asparagus, they need to be harvested before they reach the
       sunlight. It is labor-intensive work, as every single stalk is
       harvested by hand. In 2017, many thousands of workers — mainly from
       Romania and Poland — cut some 129,600 tons of white asparagus in
       Germany during the short season.
     * Young woman with a crown holding asparagus in a field
       (picture-alliance/dpa/S. Stein)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Queen of the stalks
       In spring, asparagus-growing regions all over Germany invariably
       crown a new asparagus queen. The young women, often growers'
       daughters, promote and represent the seasonal delicacy. The state
       of North Rhine-Westphalia, which is the most populous in Germany,
       requires "candidates to be between 18 and 25 years old and
       definitely independently mobile so they can cover events on their
       own."
     * Deutschland entdecken Spargel (DW)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

A museum of its own
       A museum in the Bavarian town of Schrobenhausen is dedicated solely
       to the royal vegetable. Opened in a 15th century tower in 1985, the
       museum was turned into the only European Asparagus Museum six years
       later. The exhibits shine a light on everything asparagus,
       including agriculture, history, literature, art and curios,
       including the above tongs.
       Author: Dagmar Breitenbach

   Asparagus farmer Peter Wermes, whose farm in Cologne [178]DW's Rachel
   Stewart visited last year for the "Meet the Germans" series, is glad to
   say his situation never looked that dire: "I am in the fortunate
   position that the 15 seasonal workers I always employ from Poland and
   Romania arrived here early, at the end of March. I am very grateful; I
   have enough people to harvest my fields."

   Normally most of Wermes' harvest is bought by restaurants. However, the
   coronavirus forced dine-in establishments to close their doors for
   weeks. "Some offered takeaway food, including asparagus dishes, but
   they didn't buy much," he said.

   However direct sales to customers in his farm shop has helped even out
   the balance sheet. "At first, I was very skeptical whether in times of
   crisis, people would even be interested in such a relatively
   high-quality product," he said.
   [179]Spargelbauar Wermes in Köln-Zündorf (Jürgen Lowis)

   Peter Wermes runs an asparagus farm outside Cologne, in western Germany

   White or green? An easy question for Germans

   But Wermes says it stands to reason that people have been willing to
   shell out[180]people have been willing to shell out for the
   vegetable: "They couldn't travel anywhere, couldn't go out, had more
   time, spent more time cooking meals —so there has been plenty of demand
   for asparagus."

   The demand is not color-blind, however. "The Germans are special
   because they prefer white asparagus; the green variety has no more than
   a 10% market share here," Wermes said.

   As for what's at the root of Germany's asparagus obsession, Wermes
   believs it's all about the onset of spring.

   "Asparagus is the first spring vegetable, nature is awakening, trees
   are green and budding. People crave what is fresh, and asparagus
   happens to be available very early," he explained.

   But for many Germans, asparagus season ends all too soon — on June 24,
   or the feast day of Saint John the Baptist (Johannestag), to be
   precise. The plants and the soil must have time to recover to ensure a
   plentiful harvest the following year. So Germans can still enjoy
   asparagus dishes for another month — even with coronavirus.

   Peter Wermes, 50, started growing asparagus in 1996 on the Wermes
   Asparagus and Strawberry Farm in Zündorf, a district on the outskirts
   of in the city of Cologne.

   You'll find more from [181]Meet the Germans on YouTube or
   at [182]dw.com/MeettheGermans, and check out DW's cartoon
   series [183]That's so German for a humorous take on German culture and
   stereotypes.
   Watch video 01:47

Share

German asparagus harvest

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Germany flies in seasonal workers to harvest asparagus

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     * Permalink https://p.dw.com/p/3cWPr

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