ITERATIVE SUCCESS IN A MULTI-THREADED WORLD
This weekend I finished my fourth iteration of a pleated skirt
design. I am overwhelmingly satisfied with the results. For one, I
have a beautiful skirt that looks professionally made. For two, I have
a fairly deterministic process for producing pleated skirts. For
three, I have renewed my confidence and ability as a seamstress.
Prior to this enterprise it had been a number of months since my last
sewing project, in which I experimented with the construction of sleep
dresses. I found some success in that project---I finally grasped a
purpose of lining a bodice (it can be to avoid the complicated mess of
finishing arm and neck openings)---but wasn't encouraged to produce
any grand discoveries or documentations of process. In the coming
months I expect to revisit those designs and adapt them for warmer
months.
Price, fit, fabric, and a DIY attitude prompted me to get sewing
again. I saw only dumb, expensive, ill-fitting skirts for sale. I
wanted garments better fitted to my wallet and my ambitions. Likewise,
I wanted to become less reliant on manufacturers for keeping me
clothed. Thus, I set out to become adept at making that classic, ever
useful and flattering garment: the pleated skirt.
I knew the basics of this garment's construction from my experiences
making A-line skirts (i.e.: a skirt that flairs out like an
"A"). You've got one or two panels for the skirt, proper. And one
strip for the waist band. The enclosure can be either a zipper, a
button, or an elasticized waistband that expands and contracts to get
over one's rump. Obviously, a lot of these details are the same for a
pleated skirt. Obviously, the pleats are unique to this garment
type. And that was the skill for which I was most deficient.
I like learning through discovery. Thus I opted to discover for myself
how to make pleats instead of consulting a tutorial. It is not rocket
science. I understood the basic dimension of a pleat by consulting
other pleated garments I own. Joining this knowledge with experience
gained from previous failed attempts, I landed upon a process for
constructing the pleats and an algorithm for determining the fabric
width size and number of pleats required for a given waist band
measurement.
What follows in this post are pictures of each iteration, and a brief
step-by-step detailing how to construct a pleated skirt. But before
going on, I want to take a brief sojourn reflecting on mindset.
I was aided through the efforts of this project by adopting language
common to programming: "prototype" and "iteration". From the start, I
acknowledged that the work I would produce might be inadequate and
deficient in many regards. I accepted that each iteration would be
flawed, but also that it would advance through incremental
improvement. In other words, every skirt would be an experiment,
iterating towards improvement over the last generation---successful in
some measured ways, deficient in others, and always advancing towards
improvement. I found this mindset extremely helpful for two
reasons. First, it allowed me to accept failure as an outcome of
efforts towards growth (and thus not an exertion of effort for
naught). Second, it allowed me to identify and actualize the important
details of a given generation (and thus fulfill the decree to "publish
early and often"). I hope to continue applying this mindset throughout
my life.
Advances and discoveries in each iteration
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IMG Iteration 1: Green gingham
The first iteration (in green gingham) allowed met o regain some basic
foundations in sewing. Most importantly, it included an implementation
of my button enclosure mechanism. Although pleats are largely the
subject of this post, it is the button enclosure that began this
sewing foray. This first iteration successfully demonstrates the
button enclosure, which is achieved through clever overlap of fabric
resulting in the appearance of a pleat. This iteration also begins my
experiments with the planning and construction of pleats. Some details
like the waist band and hem were not properly finished.
IMG Iteration 2: Plaid
The second iteration (in plaid) allowed me to refine the construction
of pleats. I learned how to use pins to set them in advance of being
sewed down. I also learned how to properly finish a waist band using a
top stitch. This technique hides the gory details of how the waist
band is joined with the skirt panels. Later, when I revisited this
iteration when a wide hem was joined using another bit of top
stitching.
IMG Iteration 3: Floral linen
The third iteration (in flower linen) allowed me to converge all my
skills towards producing a garment using a fabric I actually really
liked! (The two previous iterations used scrap fabric). The stakes
were high. But pressure did not thwart my attempts. I chose to
document the fabrication process because I believed the steps to be
well enough understood and repeatable. All in all, this iteration took
the longest, clocking an at about ten to fifteen hours.
IMG Iteration 4: Gray cotton linen
The fourth iteration (in gray) allowed me to observe the potential for
economizing process. In other words, I sought to follow the steps and
measurements discovered in the previous iteration with hopes that I
would yield output sooner. Indeed, I completed the skirt in seven to
ten hours, probably a reduction by half. Better yet, I added other
improvements in construction: a hem properly hidden, overlocked edges,
stitches properly back-stitched, and better fitted waist band
measurements. The garment very nearly looks like something you can buy
in store.
IMG Sneaky stitching to finish waistband
IMG Reinforced seam near button enclosure
IMG Overlocked seam, sewed flat with top stitch
IMG Button enclosure (before adding buttons)
Pleated skirt: step-by-step
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This guide is a work in progress. Presently, it covers setting up the
fabric for pleating based on a 27 inch waist size. If you need help
understanding the steps adapting to your fit, just contact me.
Cut waist band to 32 by 6 inches. Make sure that the long edge of the
fabric carries the strongest tensile strength. In other words, the
long edge has less stretch than the short edge. This is desirable for
a waistband that is resistant to stretching over time.
Cut skirt panel or panels. I used two 31.5 by 27 inch panels. Again,
the long edge carries the strongest tensile strength, since it wraps
around the body (and is desired to not stretch). The short edge
carries the length of the skirt. Alternatively, one panel can be
used. Unconfirmed, but I suspect the width would need to be 63 to 27
inches.
If working with multiple panels, join and finish the panels along a
single seam. Ideally, the seam edges are first overlocked. Then, they
are stitched together. Optionally, a top stitch can be used to make
the seam lay flat against the panel. This adds detail and improves the
skirt's drape.
Lay waist band face up (by face, I mean the fabric you want the world
to see). Mark pleat locations using a temporary marking tool like
chalk or a friction-erase pen. Marks can be very subtle, just grazed
over the edge of the fabric. Begin these marks one inch in from right
edge of waistband. Mark every two inches. Mark on the side of fabric
closest to you.
Lay skirt face down over the band. Producing the following alignments
and offsets:
- The short edge of the skirt hangs over the right side of short edge of
the waist band by one inch.
- The long edge of the skirt aligns with the long edge of the waist
band.
- The long edge of the skirt is offset from the long edge of the waist
band by 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch.
Secure the fabric together with two pins crossed over to form an
"X". Do this within the first inch of where the fabrics overlap.
Lay a ruler with a 3/4 inch width (? confirm) down over top of the
fabrics, next to the third mark from the right of the waist
band. Produce the following alignments:
- The long edge of the ruler should be perpendicular to the long edge of
the waist band.
- The left side of the ruler should just touch the pleat mark.
IMG Fabric folded over ruler
Gently lift up a bit of the panel fabric. Fold one inch of the fabric
over top of the ruler. Fold the rest of the fabric back towards its
initial direction. With one finger, press down over top of the pleat
while gently removing the ruler. Pin the pleat to the waist band. The
pin should travel across the short edge of the waist band, with the
dulled end pointing to you.
IMG Fabric folded and ruler removed
Repeat the sequence above until pleats are pinned across the waist
band. Periodically measure the distance between each pinned pleat to
ensure consistent spacing. It should be around 1 and 7/8 inches.
IMG Pleats pinned up
Take a measuring tape. Place one end of the tape two inches in from
the right edge of the waistband. Mark a mark at the beginning of the
tape. Lay the rest of the tape across the waistband towards its left
side. Identify the position of the desired waistband size. For me, it
is the 27th inch. Take note of this position in your mind or with use
of the ruler. Then, adjust this position so that it matches the
distance between every other pleat. You may need to undo pleats or
adjust the desired waist size position to fulfill this
requirement. Mark the final position. Undo all pleats, if any, to the
left of the last mark. Take the garment and delicately test its fit
around your waist.
Now, sew or overlock the two layers together. The stitch should begin
at the mark one the right side, and go until the first pleat before
the mark on the left side. Aim to have the stitch positioned about one
quarter of an inch in from the edge. Use your judgement of course and
adjust to ensure integrity of the garment.
To be continued... (Sorry, I know I shouldn't just end this abruptly
but I am absolutely very grumpy right now and I'd rather "publish
early and often" then only when things are perfect).