carolina in my mind august 11th, 2000 i made my way to asheville today. i wasn't going to - i had about a million excuses in my head to go against it, including the fact that the journey didn't begin until three o'clock in the afternoon, not giving me much time to really enjoy my destination once i got there, but it was enough. i took the asheville highway straight from greeneville through the mountains, that long, whisper of a winding road that travels alongside creeks and riverbeds, and you can see the damn over the nolachuckey river, and it pulls right by south greene high school and just keeps climbing, until eventually you're in north carolina and scared to look down. it was beautiful. and these were real mountains. big mountains. ones that you have to shift to a lower gear to climb over. ones that make the inside of your head crackle and pop as the pressure releases your eardrums. you look to the side, you can see the trickle of water softly bathing the naked rocks where the road was cut away. the asheville highway itself is a two-lane road that hardly disturbs anything. there is a canopy of green all around you, on either side. you wind softly through the forests, watch the road machinery and the tobacco farmers and the bent guard rails on either side hardly making a sound at all. indeed, it was the asheville highway that was buried beneath a mudslide a couple of years ago, the road was closed for a long time as the damage was repaired. the asheville highway knows where its place is. it doesn't pretend to be anything it's not. it doesn't want to get any bigger, even if it tried. i pulled into asheville, into the downtown area, into the place where i precisely wanted to be, all without getting lost, or making u-turns, or suffering in confusion staring at maps and stuttering over directions. this is abnormal for me. i am, after all, the same girl who a mere few weeks ago got lost on a familiar route home. i struggled with strollers, searched the floorboards for loose change for the parking meter, and rolled my little starfish around downtown asheville for the few hours i could spend, gawking at everything wide-eyed and open-mouthed, staring longingly at libraries and eccentric shops, at celtic-themed pubs and resturants of all flavours. art museums, basement music stores, environmental toys - there was even a shop that would custome-create cookies for you. the streets were packed with artists and dreamers and vagabonds, or older people who once were one of these, or younger people who wished they were. and i stared at everyone with my eyes two blue orbs of curiousity, the synapses in my brain soaking everything in, and a sudden thirst i never knew before wanting to go, to do, to be, and me, unshaven and tousled, in sandals and overall shorts. i picked through the resturants uncertain of where to eat. there were millions i would have loved to try, but many of them looked terribly fancy, and much too expensive for the nine dollars and some odd cents i had tucked away in my wallet. there was a bookstore/cafe with hippies sitting outside and some odd sculpture out in front, so i wheeled my little one in that direction and fumbled through the door. my dream bookstore. when i had visited asheville the one time before many years ago, we had stumbled upon this place, and my silly adolescent mind had no idea just what a goldmine there was. books and books, of all genres of imagining, books on parenting, and becoming a born-again-virgin, and wearing purple when you become an old woman. poetry and fantasy and history and appalachian culture, all there, teeming over the little brown bookshelves. i must have looked quite ridiculous, with my mouth wagging open all the while. i shifted to the cafe part of the store and ordered a "dante delight" and a raspberry lemonade. i picked through my warm bagel and chicken salad and tomato and bean sprouts, totally relishing it, playing with my daughter and giving her a few bites, and giving her more bites of her own food, watching her lips perk up into a fish-kiss whenever i gave her a taste of the lemonade, and laughing all the while. shaking her head "no" with me, and nodding her head "yes." pointing at people and dropping things on the floor. telling me in baby-babble her baby adventures and all of the things that make up her universe. and chairs were being arranged, because a poetry reading was happening that evening. unfortunately, i couldn't stay, because my parking meter was running out. we made our way back to the car, got ourselves settled in, and headed back for home using a different route. the asheville highway, as beautiful as it is, is not particularly somewhere i'd want to try to pick through in the dark, and i knew that the last hour of my journey would be racing against twilight. so i took the freeway back, I-40, over the mountains again, through pisgah and cherokee national forest. this was a route i had never taken before. coasting downhill, slowing on the winding curves, totally enraptured by the towering mountains on either side of me. there's something about driving through mountains that always makes me feel as if the arms of the earth have reached out to embrace me. the kind of feeling when you are a child and you are nestled in your mother's lap, and therefore nothing in the world could ever harm you. i feel protected in the mountains, and safe. and i feel as if i could climb on top of them, and proclaim my courage to the world, and guard all my loved ones from anything dark and evil that might try to pick its way in. mountains are triumphant to me, and strength, and sturdiness. they are rock, and bone, and earth, and mud, and millions of years of leaves being trampled down beneath every winter. and so i found myself comforted and exhilerated, inspired and soothed, on a stretch of I-40, that lead me up and over and around and even through (as there is a tunnel on this stretch of road) as i picked my way up into newport, and took the backroads home. (in fact, i even guessed again on what route would lead me exactly where i wanted to be, and it did.) Aisling was such an angel for the entire trip. she slept most of the way going, and then played and chattered and "sang" along with the radio until we got there. on the way back, she got slightly fussy but immediately fell asleep, and then she woke up and i gave her toys to play with and she was contented until about (of course) fifteen minutes before we reached home. but all things considered, i couldn't have been more impressed and happy with her. i suppose an outing was all we really needed, after all. needless to say, i love asheville. it is very rare for something to be even better than i remembered it being, but that was definitely the case this afternoon. all of this culture and diversity and art and variety in a city smaller (it seems, anyway) than knoxville. a small city, full of wonder, and if that wasn't enough, it is nestled in the heart of the mountains. close enough to home, but escaping the self-inflicted depression that small industrial towns seem to carry. close to all sorts of universities and colleges, that i will be targeting soon for grad schools, no doubt. those mountains tower over the foothills where i live. driving into newport, the landscape suddenly felt horribly flat. i couldn't even imagine what it would be like driving all the way out to murfreesboro anytime in the near future. all that flatness. exposed, no place to hide. as if a sudden wind could just come along and pick you up and carry you along. (and from what i hear, this *has* happened in that area.) today was a good day. i feel more courageous because of it. and i need all the courage i can get. on a totally random note, i'm becoming very noticably unshaven, and i haven't decided what i want to do about it. i used to hate having even the slightest bit of body hair (on my legs and under my arms anyway) and would keep such a close shave that you would think i never grew any. but the act of shaving is time-consuming and nearly impossible to do when your prime objective in showering is getting out as soon as possible before your daughter takes the bathroom apart, or gets restless and decides to climb in with you. a part of me thinks it might be neat to go all amazon, and just say "screw it" to razors and sharp things, at least until next spring. you know, grow a protective layer of fur to keep me warm in the winter. ever since the punk concert, i've found it difficult to work at looking attractive. i don't *want* to be attractive anymore - in fact, i'd almost rather look repulsive, and thus (hopefully) avoid being fondeled by strange musician guys in the backstage areas of concerts. i don't wear makeup anymore, i avoid short dresses and other sexy outfits most of the time, and try to disguise myself in layers of slouchy clothing and unstyled hair. i don't even want to dress "out" anymore in loud colours or glitter or any of the other numerous costumes i love to play with. it would seem, actually, that i'm trying to look as normal and plain as possible, so i can just blend into the background and no one will even know i am there. i guess that's not really a good thing, when i think about it. it's three thirty in the morning, and i'm hungry. i'm going to grab a bite to eat, pick up the living room a bit, and get to sleep. afterthoughts of jupiter roads august 11th, 2000 there were a few things about my trip to asheville, north carolina yesterday that i forgot to share. just small little random things. 1) there is something absolutely amazing about taking a small winding road up into the mountains while listening to allen ginsberg read "america" to the accompanyment of tom waits. thank you, Dust. 2) as i was entering asheville, i crossed into the "jupiter fire district" and intersected straight into jupiter road. here's to missing you, susanne. 3) out in the backroads not too far from my house there is actually a little yellow sign that says "critter xing". seriously. i want to steal that sign and mount it on my wall. 4) another discovery - on the way back from newport, there's this big silo with a huge white cross bordered in red painted on it. aircraft passing by can probably see it. i suppose there ain't too many vampires gonna mess with that grain, ya know. 5) autumn comes to tennessee in waves, starting with the easternmost portions and spreading like wildfire to the west in the most subtle ways. i had noticed this when i went off to college in murfreesboro, because i would return home to multicolored patchworks of leaves when the middle portion of the state was still green, or just turning yellow around the edges. up in the far east mountains, the leaves are already turning yellow around the edges. it won't be long now. this afternoon, i ran into greeneville for a few errands. tried out the new place where ham's has taken residence. ham's used to be an old drive-in with the most wonderous hamburgers i've ever tasted in my life, and some killer malts and milkshakes, too. you'd sit in your car, and they'd bring the food out to you, all family-owned, been there for years, in the same run-down building on the west end of town, just this side of main street. a couple of years ago they moved into the building where the dairy queen used to be, and now they've become a proper resturant, fast-service and value-meals, with a drive-thru window. it lacks the charm it used to have, and the quality of the food has deteriorated a bit, but i can guarantee you that you couldn't find a better meal anywhere for under three dollars, so i'm not complaining. i took my cheesburger and dr. pepper and Aisling all to the park behind the library, where the site of greeneville's "big spring" is, and where once there used to be the most amazing weeping willow trees you have ever seen. now, the trees are gone, replaced with picnic tables, and the stone walkways around the spring are crumbling. the ducks aren't there anymore, and the water itself doesn't look safe to play in anymore, when i can remember how clear it was when i was a child and how me and all the other children in the summer reading group i was in waded into the spring to catch those little gray insects that skid across the water (i think we called them crawdads, but i doubt that's the proper term at all.) i had wanted to take Ash down to touch the water, but i was afraid to. it seems so insane that everything changes so much and so quickly. but i am changing so much and so quickly. i can't even really describe how, or what it is that has set it off, but i can feel layers of myself peeling back piece by piece as i make these unfamiliar drives, as if i am finally shaking off the dead skin to discover what really is at the heart of things anymore. discovering what home is, what makes me smile, what makes me happy. being comfortable in myself no matter what i look like on the outside. saying to hell with the outside. taking things for more than face value. seeing into the heart of situations. i'm feeling good. braver and more confident in myself. i'm feeling my years, finally, feeling as old as i really am. feeling wise and seasoned and knowledged, instead of being young and dumb and ditzy as i always played at before, even if i wasn't. i don't know what it is, or why it's happening all of the sudden, right now, but i like it. i've always felt the way malice does about september. i've always counting my years by what grade i was in instead of my actual age. september was the beginning and june the end, with the july and august inbetween being something totally free and wild, or something suffocating and enclosing, depending on the year. and i usually get really impatient waiting for autumn, much like both rowan and lyndsay have been speaking of in their journals lately. autumn would creep into my skin weeks before it would become visibly apparent, and i'd long for the afternoons of small sweaters and blue jeans and falling in leaves and laughing in wind. this year, however, i'm kinda sad to see summer go. it has been a summer to rival the ones of my childhood, a summer that's never too hot, where insects don't really bother you, where barefoot in shorts in sun in water is all you want, where laughing outside in the sticky afternoons after dinner, watching ants while sitting on your belly. i suppose it's because Ash does all these things, now, and i chase her around in bare baby feet and bare baby legs that will have to be covered along with hats and mittens when the weather turns colder. she'll miss being outside so much. and as weird as it is for me, i'll miss it to. but for now, i need to see if i can convince my daughter that an afternoon nap would be fun, so i can catch an hour of sleep myself.