I'd hoped to learn all about the speckled history of Innsbruck, "the Bridge over the River Inn" in order to flesh out this story. In reality, between kids and work and other responsibilities, I never really got a chance to learn much at all about the place we spent Christmas of 2014. That doesn't mean it hasn't earned a very special place in my heart, though: Innsbruck was lovely. And while gorgeous architecture surrounded us on all sides, and though I diligently read histories of the Austro-Hungarian Empire at night, when I think back on it all, what I will remember is this: Happy kids ice skating. Kids who grew up in Africa, and for whom skating on ice in a flurry of snow flakes is as close to magic as you could ever hope to get. This was Christmas in Innsbruck.